FREE FLOATING

FREE-FLOATING SWATCH VEST

This technique was originally published in Machine Knit America, May/June 1996, Volume 5, #6 and was called This N’ That. I’ve updated it a bit and hope some of you will enjoy trying it out for yourself. It is a technique that involves sandwiching threads, yarns, trims, laces, yarn swatches, fabric swatches, etc… in between two layers of water-soluble stabilizer to create your own fabric. It is something that has been done in the sewing machine field for a few years and I had fun applying the same principles to machine knit swatches.

It all came about because Margaret Brossart – the editor for Machine Knit America – called me to see if I could do anything with a big box of swatches from Carolyn Dadisman’s swatch column. I said, "Sure, send them along and I’ll see what I can do." I had no idea what I got myself into.

Soon a box arrived that was crammed full of all different sized swatches. But they were not like the ones you and I make. These were little ones (some as small as 3" x 2"), big ones, and some mini shoulder and neckline swatches in every type of yarn you could imagine. But most of them were not bound off. They were cut and stabilized with scotch tape. Hmmm, now what?

I sorted the swatches by color, and didn’t like that idea, then sorted by fiber. That poor box got shuffled from room to room for a month before inspiration struck. I wanted something different, something I’d never seen before in knits, something artsy, and it came to me in a flash (actually after I saw something similar in a sewing demonstration) - the Free Floating Swatch Vest.

This was a kick to make and so easy. First, pick a vest pattern that you like. I used New Look #6246. Pick 1 size larger than you normally wear. I found out the hard way that this technique shrank a whole size before I was done.

You are going to need between a yard and a yard and a half of water-soluble fabric stabilizer. Lay the stabilizer out flat, on a large surface, and trace your vest pattern onto it with an indelible pen in the following order:

First lay one front pattern piece down and trace around the shape. Next, lay the back down. Overlap at the side seams. You want to eliminate the side 5/8" seam. If your pattern back has pleats in it, like mine did, fold them closed, and scotch tape them closed. Trace around this back pattern piece. Now reverse the front pattern piece, and trace this onto the stabilizer, eliminating the side seam again.

You now have a one-piece flat pattern and can start arranging your swatches. I mixed fair isle, lace, tuck, and stockinette swatches with metallics and rayons all in one vest. You should be careful about fiber content as this will be submerged in water and you don’t want colors to run. My one red rayon swatch bled all over the white lace on the back, but the excess dye came right out in cold water. But just about anything goes. Scatter different textures and use different orientations for a pleasing arrangement. Some of mine are tilted, some on point, some standing up, some sideways. I serged the top and bottom edge of every knit swatch used to stop them from raveling.

You don’t have to use just knit swatches though. You can add bits of yarn scraps, pieces of lace, thread scraps, fabric strips, ribbons, trims, rick-rack, etc. Pretty much well anything a sewing needle can penetrate. As you make your arrangement, you might want to leave some space around each swatch for the floating effect to occur, or overlap for a layered look.

Make a sandwich by adding another layer of water-soluble stabilizer on top of your collaged materials and pin well or use an iron – on a light heat setting - to stick the water soluble together. You don’t want anything to shift.

Draw a 1" grid (horizontal and vertical lines)across your pattern, then sew along those lines, or sew any design you like as long as everything on your collaged piece is connected by thread. A decorative stitch in free form curves, stippling, zig-zag stitches, just about anything goes. I used a chain stitch on my serger for the vest pictured in the magazine.

There are lots of lovely new threads on the market now that weren’t available when this article was written – for example the solar activated threads. A metallic thread or a variegated one would also be wonderful. Just make sure all your free form sewing connects all the sandwiched items together.

I used Fray Check to seal all the beginning and ending serged chains, then waited till dry, and cut out my vest pattern close to the indelible ink outline. Next, join the shoulders by butting them together and zig-zag with a wide stitch at the sewing machine. Cover with bias tape and sew a decorative pattern down the center to hold in place. Now apply the bias tape to the bottom edge, then 1 long piece around the side fronts and back neck. Extra wide tape was used around the armhole edges.

Now comes the magic - immerse this entire garment in warm water and really soak it well. All the stabilizer disappears and you are left with a wearable vest that looks like swatches floating on air. My knit club got the biggest kick out of this because they saw it at each stage of creation. I hope you have fun trying out this technique.

You don’t have to make an entire vest out of this technique though. Little free form shapes would be much quicker to make and you could attach them to your knit garments, purses, hats, whatever you like, to add a designer touch to your outfit.

If you have any questions about this technique, please feel free to email me at Dimity@aol.com